Traveling to Iraq in 2025: Visa, Safety, Regions, Money, SIM, Etiquette

Short answer: Yes, if you follow local rules and plan well.
Detail: Most major sites are open to visitors. Expect police or military checkpoints on intercity roads and near holy sites. Avoid protests and politically charged gatherings. Do not photograph soldiers, checkpoints, bridges, or government buildings. In cities, use licensed taxis or ride-hailing. Keep your phone and wallet out of sight. At night stay in busy areas or your hotel. In the south heat can be extreme, so plan midday rests. In the north mountains bring a warm layer for evenings.

Short answer: Two administrations, different rules.
Detail: Federal Iraq covers Baghdad, Babylon, Karbala, Najaf, Samarra, Nasiriyah, Basra, and Mosul. The Kurdistan Region covers Erbil, Duhok, and Sulaymaniyah. Visa and entry rules can differ. Security procedures differ as well. In Kurdistan, checkpoints feel lighter and self-drive is more common. In Federal Iraq, expect more ID checks and roadblocks. Phone coverage and payments differ by operator and bank network. Plan routes with these differences in mind, and keep hotel bookings and a printed itinerary on hand.

Short answer: Most European citizens can now get a visa on arrival at Baghdad, Basra, and Najaf airports. Some still need to apply in advance through the Iraqi eVisa portal or an authorized local tour operator.
Detail:
Visa types and regions
Iraq has two separate entry systems:

• Federal Iraq – includes Baghdad, Karbala, Najaf, Babylon, Basra, and the southern provinces.
• Kurdistan Region – includes Erbil, Duhok, and Sulaymaniyah.

The two visas are not interchangeable.
If you enter through Erbil (Kurdistan), you cannot legally continue to Baghdad or southern Iraq without a Federal visa.
If you start your trip in Baghdad or Basra, your visa is valid nationwide, including Kurdistan.

Visa on Arrival (Federal Iraq)
Citizens of most EU countries, the UK, Norway, Switzerland, and several others are eligible for a Visa on Arrival (VOA) at Baghdad, Basra, and Najaf airports.

• Fee: 77 USD (cash only).
• Required: passport valid for 6 months, hotel booking, and return flight.
• Validity: 30 days, single-entry.
• Payment must be in clean, undamaged USD notes.
• Details and updates: Iraqi Ministry of Foreign Affairs – Visa Policy

eVisa application
If your nationality is not eligible for VOA, you can apply online at the official portal:
👉 https://evisa.iq/en
You’ll need:

• A passport scan (valid for 6+ months)
• Digital passport-style photo
• Travel insurance covering Iraq
• Hotel reservation or tour confirmation
• Payment by card (where available)

Approval time: usually 7–10 working days, but it can vary.
You’ll receive a Visa Grant Notice (approval letter) to print and show at check-in and upon arrival.
Applying through a local tour operator
If you travel with a licensed Iraqi tour agency, they can handle the application for you.
They submit your details directly to the Ministry of Interior (MOI) and provide you with the Visa Grant Notice before departure.
You’ll present it at the airport and receive the actual visa stamp upon arrival.
I personally arrange the visa process for my travelers – you only send:

• A passport scan,
• A digital photo,
• And your insurance mentioning Iraq.

Important notes

• Bring cash in USD or EUR, as card payments do not work in Iraq.
• Always keep a copy of your visa and entry stamp on your phone.
• The visa is single-entry and cannot be extended without leaving the country.
• If entering through Kurdistan, apply separately for the Federal visa before traveling south.
• Official government info: Iraqi Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Iraqi Ministry of Interior, eVisa Portal

Short answer: Yes, independent travel is possible across Iraq, but having a local guide or driver makes the journey far smoother, faster, and safer — especially in Federal Iraq.
Detail:
Independent travel in 2025
Iraq has reopened to individual travelers, and there are no legal restrictions that require foreigners to travel with a licensed guide, except for specific journalists or documentary crews.
You can freely explore most regions if you hold a valid visa, follow local laws, and respect religious customs.
However, the experience is very different between the Kurdistan Region (north) and Federal Iraq (center and south).

• In the Kurdistan Region (Erbil, Duhok, Sulaymaniyah), independent travel is easy. Roads are safe, English is common, and checkpoints are relaxed. You can rent a car, use ride-hailing apps, or move by taxi without issues.
• In Federal Iraq (Baghdad, Karbala, Najaf, Basra, Mosul, Samarra, etc.), travel logistics are more complex. Checkpoints are frequent, and police may ask for your route or hotel confirmation. A local contact, fixer, or guide helps in these moments and saves a lot of time.

Why having a guide helps
A registered guide or driver can:

• Handle Arabic communication at checkpoints.
• Arrange entry permits for sensitive zones (for example, Hatra, Mosul Old City, or marshlands).
• Know the best routes when certain roads are temporarily closed.
• Help with cultural etiquette in religious sites (especially in Karbala and Najaf).
• Manage hotel check-ins when staff have limited English.

Safety and route advice
Independent travelers should avoid night driving between cities. Keep a printed itinerary with hotel names, passport copies, and your visa approval letter in your bag.
If you plan to visit archaeological sites or southern marshes, contact a licensed operator beforehand to check whether local permits or escorts are needed.
For up-to-date safety updates, consult your government’s travel page (e.g. UK FCDO, US State Department.

My recommendation
For a first-time trip, join a small organized group or hire a trusted local driver for long transfers. This doesn’t limit your freedom — it simply removes the uncertainty of language barriers and route restrictions.
I work with licensed partners across Iraq who ensure both comfort and safety, while still allowing travelers full flexibility.
For a first-time trip, join a small organized group or hire a trusted local driver for long transfers. This doesn’t limit your freedom — it simply removes the uncertainty of language barriers and route restrictions.
I work with licensed partners across Iraq who ensure both comfort and safety, while still allowing travelers full flexibility.

Short answer: Yes, checkpoints are common across Iraq, and a few regions still require special permits. With patience and preparation, they’re easy to manage and part of normal travel.
Detail:
Checkpoints overview
Iraq has an extensive security system with checkpoints between cities, at bridges, and near government or religious sites.
These are run by the army, police, or local militias working with the government.
For travelers, they are not dangerous — just routine.
You’ll typically be asked for your passport, visa, and hotel booking.
In cities like Baghdad, Karbala, Najaf, and Mosul, checkpoints are frequent but friendly.
In the Kurdistan Region, they are fewer and less formal — often just a wave through.
Documents to have ready

• Original passport with your visa or entry stamp.
• A printed hotel booking or itinerary showing where you’re going next.
• Your driver’s name and phone number.
• A copy of your visa approval letter (if you got it before arrival).
• If possible, a local SIM card so you can confirm details instantly.

Keep all papers neatly in a folder or clear file. Present them calmly when asked — this makes the process faster and shows respect.
Restricted and sensitive areas
A few zones still require special permission or are off-limits for foreign tourists:

• Border areas with Syria, Iran, and Kuwait.
• Oil-producing regions and refineries (Basra area).
• Certain archaeological sites near Mosul or Samarra that are under army supervision.
• Some desert zones west of Karbala and Anbar province.

If you travel with an agency or local partner, they obtain any required permits in advance. Solo travelers can contact the Iraqi Tourism Board or Ministry of Culture for details: https://mocul.gov.iq

What to avoid

• Never photograph or film checkpoints, soldiers, police, or military vehicles.
• Do not use drones anywhere near security zones — they can be confiscated, and you may be detained.
• Avoid discussing politics or religion at checkpoints.

Practical advice
Always stay polite, answer briefly, and avoid jokes.
If officers keep your passport for inspection, wait patiently until they return it.
If told to stop or turn back, follow instructions immediately — arguing never helps.
For long overland routes (e.g. Baghdad–Basra, or Babylon–Karbala–Najaf), plan extra time for checkpoint stops — they can add 30–60 minutes.
I always keep printed itineraries for my groups; it speeds things up and leaves a professional impression.

Short answer: Dress modestly. Shoulders, knees, and chest should be covered. Iraq is conservative, but locals are welcoming when travelers show respect through proper clothing.
Detail:
General overview
Iraq is a Muslim-majority country with conservative dress norms. Both men and women should wear loose, non-transparent clothes that cover most of the body. The goal is to show respect for local culture, especially in public, religious, and family areas.
For men

• Long trousers are required in public; shorts are acceptable only inside hotels or in remote nature areas.
• Regular shirts or T-shirts with sleeves are fine. Avoid sleeveless shirts or deep-cut necklines.
• In mosques or shrines, wear long sleeves and avoid tight-fitting clothes.
• Footwear: closed shoes or sandals are acceptable; remove shoes before entering religious sites.

For women

• Shoulders, arms, and legs should be covered. Long skirts or loose trousers are ideal.
• Tops should cover the hips and not be see-through.
• A light scarf or shawl is recommended at all times and required inside mosques or shrines.
• In conservative southern cities such as Karbala or Najaf, wear darker, looser clothes and always cover hair fully.
• In Kurdistan, the atmosphere is more relaxed, but modesty is still appreciated.
• Avoid tight jeans, short skirts, and sleeveless tops.

Religious and cultural sites
When entering mosques, shrines, or Christian monasteries:

• Both men and women must cover arms and legs completely.
• Women will often need to wear a long coat or abaya; scarves are mandatory.
• Some holy places lend chadors or long robes at the entrance.

Practical advice
Choose breathable fabrics like cotton or linen — Iraq’s heat can be extreme. Neutral colors attract less attention. Carry an extra scarf in your bag; it is useful both for shrines and sun protection.
Respectful clothing makes travel smoother — locals notice and often respond with warmth and hospitality when visitors follow these norms.

Short answer: Bring cash in USD or EUR. Foreign cards rarely work, and most payments are made in cash.
Detail:
Currency
The local currency is the Iraqi dinar (IQD). It is a closed currency, meaning you can’t buy or exchange it outside the country. Bring clean, undamaged US dollars or euros, preferably in small denominations (10s, 20s, 50s). Avoid old or torn bills — many exchangers refuse them.
Cards and ATMs
Foreign debit and credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, Revolut, Wise, etc.) generally do not work in Iraq. ATMs exist in big cities, but they serve only local banks. A few international hotels in Baghdad or Erbil may accept cards processed through foreign terminals, but this is rare and unreliable.
Exchanging money
Exchange money at official exchange offices (saraf), hotel receptions, or banks in major cities such as Baghdad, Basra, Erbil, or Sulaymaniyah. Street exchangers exist, but use them only with a local guide’s help. Always count your money in front of the exchanger and confirm the rate before the deal.
The rate can differ widely between the official and market rates, so check online for the daily market rate (e.g. IQD/USD) to avoid being overcharged.
Practical tips

• Keep a mix of small and large notes for everyday use.
• Split your cash into several parts and keep one emergency reserve separate.
• Carry enough cash for hotels, drivers, and meals — card payments are almost never available.
• Hotel safes are not always reliable, so use a money belt or a concealed pouch for valuables.
• In markets and with drivers, prices are often negotiable, so small bills are helpful.

In short, Iraq is still a cash-only economy. Travelers who plan ahead and carry the right currency will have no issues, but relying on cards will almost certainly cause problems.

Short answer: Buy a SIM with your passport on arrival or in a city shop.
Detail: Major operators are Asiacell, Zain, and Korek. Coverage varies by region. Asiacell is widespread in the south and central areas. Korek is strong in Kurdistan. Zain is common in big cities. Ask for a data plan with enough gigabytes for maps and ride-hailing. Install the operator app to check balance. If traveling in both regions, consider two SIMs or eSIM where supported. Keep your number written down for hotel registration.

Foreigners can buy SIM cards just in official stores of mobile operators.

A slightly more expensive but more convenient option is to get the Saily eSIM app. To use the internet, you won’t need to look for a mobile operator’s store—just activate the eSIM data package purchased in the app as soon as you land in Iraq. You’ll have cheap internet even before leaving the plane.

Short answer: Be careful and ask first.
Detail: Photograph people only with permission, especially women and families. In shrines follow staff guidance. No photos of army, police, checkpoints, or government. Many museums allow photos without flash. Drones usually need permits and can get you detained without them. If unsure, do not fly.

Short answer: Spring and autumn.
Detail: March to May and late September to November are best for weather. Summer is very hot in the south and deserts. Winter can be cold and wet in the north. For marshes near Nasiriyah pick spring. For mountains pick late spring and autumn. For southern archaeology avoid midday sun and start early.

Short answer: The best way to travel across Iraq is a mix of domestic flights for long distances and private drivers for regional routes. Taxis and ride-hailing apps work well inside major cities.
Detail:
Domestic flights
Flying is the fastest and often safest way to cover long distances between cities.
Regular flights connect Baghdad, Basra, Najaf, Erbil, and Sulaymaniyah, sometimes also Mosul.
Airlines include Iraqi Airways (iraqiairways.com.iq) and Fly Baghdad (flybaghdad.net).

Tickets can be booked online or through local travel offices.
Airport security checks are strict but efficient. Arrive 2–3 hours before your flight.
Private drivers
Most intercity travel is done by private car with a driver.
A local driver knows the checkpoints, police routines, and the best route conditions.
For long routes (Baghdad–Basra, Karbala–Nasiriyah, Mosul–Erbil), drivers usually charge per day, including fuel.
Expect around $80–120 USD per day depending on distance and car type.
Always agree on the price before departure.
I work with local drivers I’ve known for years — they are used to foreign travelers and know which checkpoints require extra patience or copies of documents.
Taxis and ride-hailing in cities
In Baghdad, Basra, Erbil, and Sulaymaniyah, taxis are everywhere.
Use hotel reception or ask locals to call one — street hailing is fine in safe areas.
Most rides inside cities cost between 3–8 USD depending on traffic.
Ride-hailing apps such as Careem (careem.com) operate in Baghdad and Erbil, offering safer pricing and driver tracking.
Public transport
There are intercity buses and shared taxis (called “coaster” or “service”), but they can be confusing for foreigners due to Arabic signage and unpredictable schedules.
If you speak some Arabic or travel with a local, they are cheap and social, but for most visitors a private driver is simpler.
Travel tips

• Avoid driving yourself — insurance and paperwork are complicated, and road rules differ by region.
• Avoid night driving; roads are poorly lit and checkpoints may not expect foreigners at night.
• Carry your passport and hotel booking for every checkpoint.
• Always have the hotel address in Arabic for taxi drivers.

With the right driver and local advice, overland travel in Iraq is safe, flexible, and full of encounters you’d never get from a plane window.

Short answer: Alcohol and pork are both restricted in Iraq, and public behavior is expected to be conservative.
Detailed answer:
Iraq is a Muslim-majority country, and both alcohol and pork fall under religious restrictions. That said, rules vary by region and city.
In Baghdad, Basra, and some Christian or mixed neighborhoods, alcohol can be found in a few licensed liquor shops, hotel bars, and private restaurants that serve foreigners. It’s legal to buy and consume alcohol in these places, but public drinking is not allowed. You cannot walk around with an open bottle or can, even if you are a foreigner. During Ramadan, alcohol sales often pause completely.
In the Kurdistan Region (Erbil, Duhok, Sulaymaniyah), regulations are looser. Supermarkets and hotel bars may sell beer and wine openly, and tourists can drink privately in restaurants or hotel rooms without issue. Still, showing signs of drunkenness in public would cause problems.
As for pork, it is not sold in Muslim-run restaurants or markets, but some international or Christian-owned shops occasionally stock imported products. It’s not illegal to eat pork as a foreigner, but it’s considered disrespectful to bring or request it publicly.
Public behavior is generally modest and respectful. Avoid loud arguments, physical affection in public, or political discussions. When visiting mosques or shrines, dress conservatively, remove shoes when required, and avoid taking selfies or photos of worshippers. In conservative towns, it’s best for men and women who are not married to avoid holding hands or hugging in public.
Showing respect for local customs will make interactions smoother and often earns you warmer hospitality in return.

Short answer: Fridays are Iraq’s main weekly rest day, and many museums, shops, and government offices close or open late. During major religious holidays, whole cities can slow down or block roads near shrines.
Detail:
Fridays
Friday is the Muslim holy day, and most of Iraq follows a slower rhythm.

• Government offices and banks are closed.
• Museums and heritage sites often open late (around 10–11 AM) or close early.
• Markets (souks) may open after the main Friday prayer (around noon).
• Restaurants and cafes in big cities stay open, but mornings are quiet.
• If you’re planning visits to the National Museum in Baghdad, Basra Museum, or Samarra ruins, check schedules a day in advance or ask your hotel for updated hours.

Religious holidays
Iraq observes both Islamic and Christian holidays, depending on the region.
The most important are:

• Ashura (commemorating Imam Hussein’s martyrdom) — large processions in Karbala and Najaf; expect road closures and huge crowds.
• Arbaeen pilgrimage — one of the world’s largest religious gatherings, millions walk to Karbala; many roads are closed for days.
• Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha — family holidays; shops may close for 2–3 days, and public transport runs less frequently.
• Christmas and Easter are public holidays in Christian communities, especially in the north (Ankawa, Qaraqosh, Alqosh).

Travel tips

• Avoid intercity travel during Ashura or Arbaeen unless you specifically go to observe them.
• Keep your passport and hotel confirmation handy; checkpoints become more frequent during holidays.
• Book hotels well in advance — domestic visitors fill them quickly during pilgrimages.
• During Eid periods, drivers and guides may charge higher rates or take time off.

For an updated calendar of religious holidays and public events, check the Iraqi Ministry of Culture and Tourism website (mocul.gov.iq) or local hotel reception a few days before travel.
My note:
I always plan one flexible day in itineraries around major holidays — sometimes what feels like an “inconvenience” becomes the most memorable part of the journey. Witnessing a pilgrimage in Karbala or a local feast in Najaf can give a deep sense of Iraq’s living traditions.

Short answer: English is spoken in hotels, airports, and among younger people, but less so in smaller towns. Knowing a few Arabic or Kurdish words helps a lot.
Detail:
Languages in Iraq
Iraq has two main official languages: Arabic and Kurdish.

• Arabic is used across Baghdad, Karbala, Najaf, Basra, and the southern and central regions.
• Kurdish is spoken in the north, especially in Erbil, Duhok, and Sulaymaniyah.
• Many locals also understand a few words of English, but full conversations are rare outside cities and hotels.

Where English helps
In major hotels, airports, and museums you will find English-speaking staff.
University students and younger people in cities often know some English and are happy to talk or help with translation apps.
In restaurants, English menus are becoming more common, especially in Baghdad and Erbil.
Where English doesn’t work
In smaller towns, local markets, or while dealing with taxi drivers, you will need basic Arabic or Kurdish phrases.
Numbers, greetings, and simple questions go a long way.
Keep your hotel name and address written in Arabic or Kurdish to show drivers or checkpoint officers.
Useful Arabic phrases

• Hello – Salam alaikum
• Thank you – Shukran
• How much? – Kam?
• Yes / No – Na’am / La
• Excuse me – Afwan
• Good – Zain
• Where is...? – Wain...?

Useful Kurdish phrases

• Hello – Slaw
• Thank you – Spas
• How are you? – Choni?
• Yes / No – Bale / Na

Practical tips

• Download Google Translate and pre-load Arabic for offline use.
• Learn to recognize Arabic numerals (٠ ١ ٢ ٣ ٤ ٥ ٦ ٧ ٨ ٩), as prices in markets and signs often use them.
• Use your phone’s note app to show text instead of pronouncing difficult words.
• Locals appreciate even small efforts to speak their language, and it often opens doors to warm conversations or invitations for tea.

I usually learn a few new words every trip. Iraqis respect visitors who try, and that effort often turns a simple interaction into a genuine moment of connection.

Short answer: Pack light, modest, and practical clothing, protect yourself from heat and sun, and bring basic health and power essentials.
Detailed answer:
Iraq’s climate varies sharply between regions — hot and dry in the south, cooler in the north and mountains — so what you pack should cover both extremes.
Clothing:

• Choose breathable, loose, natural fabrics like cotton or linen.
• For men: long pants and shirts with sleeves.
• For women: long, lightweight trousers or skirts and tops that cover shoulders and reach past the hips. A scarf is useful for visiting mosques.
• Bring one warmer layer (hoodie or light jacket) for cool evenings, especially in Kurdistan or desert nights.
• Comfortable closed shoes are essential for archaeological sites, bazaars, and uneven streets. Sandals are fine for casual use but not for ruins or long walks.

Health and hygiene:

• Sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, and lip balm — the sun can be harsh even in spring.
• Reusable water bottle or thermos (tap water is not safe to drink).
• Basic first aid kit: painkillers, antiseptic wipes, plasters, rehydration salts, and any prescription medication in original packaging.
• Hand sanitizer and wet wipes for road days when water is scarce.
• Mosquito repellent if you’ll visit the southern marshes or stay near rivers.
• Travel insurance that explicitly names Iraq — it’s required for most visas.

Electronics and power:

• Power sockets are Type C and Type F (the same as in most of Europe), 230 V, 50 Hz.
• Travelers from the UK, US, or Canada need a plug adapter.
• A small power bank helps during long drives or power cuts.
• Keep photocopies of your passport, visa, and travel insurance both printed and digital.

Other useful items:

• Lightweight daypack, flashlight or headlamp, tissues, and a notebook for checkpoints where phones aren’t allowed.
• A few small gifts (keychains, chocolate, postcards) can be nice gestures when meeting locals or hosts.

Overall, pack for comfort, modesty, and flexibility. Iraq’s roads, temperatures, and customs change quickly — the less you carry, the easier you move.

Short answer: I organize small group trips that cover both Federal Iraq and the Kurdistan Region, combining safety, comfort, and authentic local experiences. You can join by email or through the trip registration page.
Detail:
About the trips
I personally lead every group. Each journey connects the most important parts of the country – Baghdad, Babylon, Karbala, Najaf, Nasiriyah, the southern marshes, Basra, and when possible, Erbil and Mosul.
Trips are designed to show real Iraq, not just monuments. We visit ancient sites, meet locals, and stay in comfortable but characterful hotels.
Group size and pace
Groups are small, usually 8 to 15 people. This keeps travel flexible and personal.
The pace is balanced – early starts when needed, but enough time to rest and explore freely.
I work with local drivers and guides who know the routes and current checkpoint situations.
Included services

• Transport with an air-conditioned minivan or SUV
• Hotels and breakfasts
• Local guides and drivers
• All permits and entry tickets
• Visa support if needed

How to join
You can see upcoming trips and dates on SpaceTravel.lt
If a date fits you, write to me at vladas@spacetravel.lt or fill the registration form.
I’ll reply personally, confirm availability, and send the full itinerary and payment details.
Payment and booking
A small deposit confirms your place, and the balance is due closer to departure.
Payments are accepted by bank transfer or PayPal.
I keep each group intentionally small, so early booking helps secure your spot.
Practical note
Every itinerary is updated before departure to match the current security and travel conditions.
If something changes on the ground, we adapt quickly – safety and experience always come first.